Collar



y 1938. M. KAPLAN ET Al. 2,118,408

C OLLAR Filed Aug. 17, 1936 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 May 24, 1938.

M. L. KAPLAN ET AL COLLAR Filed Aug. 17, 1956 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 May 24,1938. M. L. KAPLAN ET'AL COLLAR Filed Aug. 1'7, 1936 5 Sheets-Sheet 5III E] wk 7/////////// Patented May 24, 1938 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICECOLLAR Morris L. Kaplan, Hazleton, and Gustav Kaplan,

Harrisburg, Pa., assignors, by mesne assignments, to

Trubenizing Process Corporation,

1 Claim.

The present invention relates to collars and refers particularly tothoseof the folding or turn down type. I

In collars of this type and particularly those which include anintermediate stiffening ply of adhesive material cemented or fused tothe other plies, we have found that when the collar is pressed, there isusuallyformed a sharp edge which is decidedly uncomfortable and annoyingto the wearer. Furthermore, the continued laundering and pressing placesconsiderable strain on the fabric in the region of the fold, whichresults in a break in both the fused interliner and outer ply after afew washings. Another objection resides in the fact that with collars ofthis type when there is no positive means for determining the fold line,an incorrect folding and pressing frequently occurs in the launderingoperation and this renders necessary a complete re-laundering due to thepresence of the fused material and the permanent crease formed along theincorrect line of fold.

The present invention is designed to eliminate these objectionablefeatures by constructing a collar having means for producing adefinitely marked line of fold whereby the laundry operator maydetermine at a glance where the fold should be made. This materiallyexpedites the laundering operation and improves the appear- 30 ance ofthe laundered collar. Furthermore, the

sharpness of the fold line is obviated by our arrangement as the meansfor determining the fold line also insures a relatively soft roll orcushioned effect at the fold which is not only comfortable to thewearer, but increases the life of the collar. An additional advantageresides in the fact that this construction provides a tie space betweenthe collar and band which greatly facilitates the tie sliding operation.

I With the foregoing and other objects in View, the invention will nowbe more particularly described, reference being had to the accompanyingdrawings wherein:

r Figure 1 is a side elevation of the interliner of the preferred formof our invention,

.Figure 2 is an enlarged fragmentary section taken on line 2-2 of Figure1,

Figure 3 is a side elevation of the inner ply with the strip of paperattached,

Figure 4 is an enlarged fragmentary section taken on line 44 of Figure3,

Figure 5 is a side elevation of the outer ply,

Figure 6 is a section taken on line 6-6 of Figure 5,

Figure 7 is a side elevation of the plies stitched together before beingreversed,

Figure 8 is a vertical section taken on line 88 of Fi ure 7,

Figure 9 is an enlarged perspective view of one 5 end-of the collarafter the plies have been reversed,

Figure 10 is a vertical section showing the plies after being turned,but before the solvent has been applied,

Figure 11 is a section similar to Figure 10 after the solvent has beenapplied and the plies pressed together,

Figure 12 is an enlarged fragmentary sectional View of the upper portionof the collar after the plies have been pressed together showing thearrangement of the cord and strip of paper,

Figure 13 is a view showing the neck band plies stitched to the collar,but before being turned,

Figure 14 is a view of the completed collar with the neck band portionsreversed and stitched down and ready for attachment to the shirt,

Figure 15 is a side elevation of a modified form of the invention afterthe plies have been initially stitched together,

Figure 16 is a section taken on line l6|6 of Figure 15,

Figure 17 is a side elevation of a further modification of theinvention,

Figure 18 is a section taken on line i8l8 of Figure 17,

Figure 19 is a view showing the plies reversed and being pressed andfused together, and

Figure 20 is a view showing the collar after being fused and pressed.

In forming a collar incorporating the novel features of our invention,we contemplate utilizing at least two outside plies of suitable materialand an intermediate ply or interliner capable of being stiffened andadhesively secured to or fused with the other plies to form a collar ofeither the detached or shirt attached type. The particular formation ofthe stiffened ply does not form a part of this invention, but ispreferably of the type composed of woven threads of a cellulosederivative. As is well known inthe art, this material is normallyflexible until treated or moistened with a suitable solvent which, whenthe collar is pressed, stiffens the interliner and adhesively secures orfuses the same to the outside plies.

In our method, we interpose along the fold line between the interlinerand one of the outer plies, preferably the inner ply, a means forpreventing fusing of the two plies, thus creating a natural fold line.We prefer to secure a strip of paper tissue or other light materialeither to the interliner or one of the outside plies before applying thesolvent, thus preventing adhesion of the interliner tothe outer ply andcreating an area of greater flexibility than the remainder of the foldover or top portion of the collar and facilitating the folding ofthe-collarat this point. We preferably treat this area so as to providea marked and natural line of fold.

Referring now to the drawings, Figures 1 to 14 illustrate the preferredembodiment of the invention wherein the numeral l0 designates theintermediate ply or interliner and H and I2 the inner and outer pliesrespectively of a collar of the attached type. In this form, the collarcomprises three plies and it is to be understood that by inner ply, wemean that-one whichin the completed article constitutes the inner orconcealed ply when the collar is folded down or over the neck bandportion-of the collar. Likewise, the outer ply is that one 'whichisexposed to viewandconstitutes theoutside'ply when'the collar is foldedover or turned down upon-theneck band portion.

Secured to one surface ofthe interliner!!! and somewhat adjacent its topedge is a c0r1dl3. This cord extends substantially the entire length ofthe collar and, as noted in Figure 1,-terminates in each instance at thenotched portions M of the interliner. These notches are formed intheinterliner for a particular ,purpose which will be hereinafterdescribed. While any desired-type of threadmay be utilized'to secure thecord l3 to the interliner, we prefer a thread l5 formed of a celaneseyarn which will'itself fuse and permit the proper 'fusingof the cord andouter plywhen the plies are joined together. 'While a linen or cottonthreadcould be used, we have found that it interferes somewhat-with-thebondingof the outerply and interliner and thus is not as effective orsatisfactory as a thread of celanese or cellulose acetate. The .innerply H has secured thereto, by means of suitable stitching, a strip ofthin tissue-like material l6, such astissue paper. Similarly to the cord13 this strip extendslengthwise of the inner ply and is ofsufiicient'width to encompass the cord when theseveral plies arearranged in their final positions Epreparatoryto fusing and connectingthe collar :to the "neck band.

The next step in the formation. of the collar comprises placing thethree plies together, as shown in Figures 7 and 8, with'the interlinerIll and the inner ply H enclosing the outer ply 12. These plies arepositioned with the cord 13 and the strip of paper I l exposed and thethree plies are then secured together by suitable stitching '11. Thecollar is then turned inside out or reversed so that the interliner isenclosed within the inner and outer plies 1! and 12 as illustrated inFigures 9 and 10 of the drawings. It will be further observed that thestrip of tissue paper 16 is now secured to the inner face of the innerply H and is so positionedwith respect to the cord l3 that it entirelycovers the latter, that is, the cord is within the area covered by thestrip. The three plies are .again stitched together 'by, a row ofstitching l8 which forms a marginal border around'three sides of thecollar. By forming the notches M in each upper edge-of the interlinerand terminating each end of the cord in rear of each notch, folding ofthe 'cord ends in the turning operation is avoided and severalthicknesses of material are eliminated at vneck band plies thereto.

will render the cellulose derivative c-ementitious.

Figures 11 and 12 illustrate the collar after the solventlhas beenapplied and the collar is now in readiness for-the-next operation ofattaching the These plies comprise an inner ply l9 constituting ineifect a continua- .tion ,of"the'plyllil,.an outer ply 20 and a suitablelining .2! secured to the outer ply. As shown in Figure 13, these pliesmay be secured to the upper-portion of theacollar either separately orin one operation.

After the neck band applying operation, the plies I9, 20 and 2| are thenreversed to ,the position shown in Figure 14 and "adoublelineofstitching 22 is applied lengthwise of the collar to securelyconnect the neck band p1iest0 the remainder of the'collar. In this view,:the collar proper .is complete, that is, the fold 'over portion andneck band portion are in readiness tobe secured to-the shirt in theusual manner.

It will be observed that the lines of stitching whichconnect theneckband portion to the rest of the collar are spaced-a slight distancefrom the cord 13. ,Thus, when the collar is laidflat during'thelaundering operation, this cord will-be prominent through the-inner plyin the form of .a longitudinally extending roll and thus designate andconstitute a permanent fold line which the laundry operator may followwhen folding over and pressing down the collar. Furthermore, by reasonof the strip of paper 16 being interposed between :the inner ply and theinterliner,

that portion or area of the inner :ply will not be fused to theinterliner, with the result that there is formed an area of greaterflexibility than the rest of the fused portion =of thecollar. This, incombination with the cord l3, permits the collar to be folded over'alonga definite line and with a .rolled effect, as distinguished from theusual 0 sharpened folded portion of this type of fused .collar, It is tobe further noted that thecord l3, which may be of linen or cotton, hasan additional function in the formation of the rolled fold. When thecollar is being laundered and after it is ready for pressing, thatportion of the collar where the cord is stitched, is considerablythicker than the remainder of the fused portion of the collar.Consequently. the moisture or dampness will remain longer in the cordthan in the rest of the collar or at least during the fold ingoperation. This has the effect of facilitating the folding operation inthat this portion of the collar is softened and will assist in makingthe rolled edge without placing any undue strain on the plies.

Referring now to Figures .15 and 16 there is disclosed a modified formof the invention wherein a line of stitching is substituted for the cordl3. In all other respects the collar is formed in the same manner asthat abovev described. Thus, in Figure 16, which is a view similar 'toFigure 8, the numerals 23, 24 and 25 represent the interliner, inner plyand outer ply respectively. The interliner is provided with a line ofstitching 26 extending longitudinally thereof and the inner ply 24 hassecured thereto a strip of tissue paper 21. When these plies are turnedinside out, after being stitched together, the line of stitching will bepositioned within the area covered by the paper strip 21. The plies arethen fused to the interliner and the neck band portions stitched to thefused collar. As in the other form of the invention, the plies of theneck band will terminate a short distance from the line of stitching 26and the fold line will be determined by this line of stitching. Whilethis fold line will not be as pronounced as that in which the cord isused, nevertheless, we have found that this form of the inventionconstitutes quite an improvement over the usual form of fused collar;that is, it permits the collar to be folded over along a definitepermanent line and in addition, prevents a sharpened folded edge, and anearly breaking of the plies at this point.

Figures 1'7 to 20 illustrate another form of the invention in which thefold line is impressed into the collar instead of being formed by a cordor line of stitching. In this form of the invention the collar consistsof three plies, as in the other forms. Figure 19 discloses the pliespositioned in their final form, after they had been stitched togetherand reversed and are in position to be fused or adhesively securedtogether. In this view the numerals 28, 29 and 3B represent the outerply, interliner and inner ply respectively, with the strip of tissuepaper 3| interposed between the interliner and inner ply. The numeral 32designates a pressing mechanism which is adapted to press and fuse theplies together immediately after the solvent has been applied to theplies. It will be observed that a cord 33 is attached to the top elementof the pressing mechanism at a point coincident with the area of thestrip of paper 3|. As the plies are being pressed and fused together,the cord 33 will impress a groove 34 in the inner ply of the collar.This is clearly shown in Figure 20 which represents the collar after ithas been pressed and fused together. While we have found that thisgroove is not as lasting as the cord and the line of stitching,nevertheless, it will remain in the collar after a considerable numberof washings and will function in the manner of the cord and line ofstitching, that is, it will provide a positive designated fold linewhich may be followed by the laundry operator in folding the collar overthe neck band. By reason of the strip of paper form-. ing an area ofgreater flexibility than the remainder of the fused portion of thecollar, the fold will have a rolled effect rather than a sharpened edge,and the plies will not crack or break at the fold.

While we have disclosed all of the forms of the invention as beingapplied to a shirt attached collar, it is to be understood that theinvention is readily applicable to a detached collar of the turned downor folding type. With this latter form of collar, the inner and outerplies and interliner may of course be of a width to form both the foldover portion and the neck band and may be either of a single piece ofmaterial or of separate pieces as desired. It is furthermore apparentthat while We have shown the strip of paper, the cord and line stitchingas being applied some- What adjacent the top portions of the plies, thisis not an essential feature of the invention as the fused portion of theattached collar could, if desired, be widened and constitute aconsiderable portion of the neck band, with the cord and strip of paperbeing positioned substantially centrally of the longitudinal edges ofthe collar. Furthermore, while we have designated tissue paper as thepreferred material to be used, the invention is by no means limited topaper, as any relatively thin material may be used in its place andfunction properly to provide the area of increased flexibility.Likewise, the interliner need not necessarily constitute a completelywoven ply, but may consist of a plurality of cellulose derivativethreads interposed between the inner and outer plies. Thus, in theattached claim, the terms inner and outer plies, are considered to coverplies regardless of whether they constitute both the turned down portionand neck band, either in one or more sections, and in either theattached or detached type of collar. Furthermore, the term intermediatestiffening liner is considered to cover both a woven ply or a pluralityof spaced threads. Also, the phrase means defining the fold line of thecollar is considered broad enough to include a cord, line of stitching,groove or any other suitable means which could be used to define thefold line.

We claim:

A folding or turn down collar comprising a plurality of plies of fabricsecured together by an intermediate adhesive material, said adhesivematerial having a cover on one surface thereof covering a portion of thematerial to prevent the ply adjacent to the cover from adhering in theregion of the cover to form an area of greater flexibility than theremainder of the collar, and means located in the flexible area anddefining the fold line of the collar.

MORRIS L. KAPLAN. GUSTAV KAPLAN.

